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Tuesday 27 June 2023

Our North Vietnam holiday

As the children (2 out of 3) are now teens it gets harder to plan or go for any holiday. It's too hot, why are we walking so much.....and the number of complaints grows.

I had wanted to go to Borobudur (the history buff in me) but the idea was immediately canceled by no.1. Too hot! Remember Medan? I was so disappointed, it's June and I am not quite keen to pay for the air tickets to New Zealand or Australia. 

Then I found out that there is a place in South East Asia that has air-conditioner temperature, around 20-25C.......in Sapa, Vietnam. This town is at an altitude of 1500 to 2500m and experiences cool weather throughout the year and may even snow in winter. The high altitude is good for the hubby to load up on Hemoglobin for his upcoming US Western States Race the following week.

Air ticket prices......checked! And here we go to North Vietnam with the main focus on Sapa. I added one night Halong Bay Cruise as I did not want to spend two nights in Hanoi.

And here is our itinery and where I booked the transport, tours and accommodation.

11 Jun (Sun) Depart 3.05 pm Singapore Airlines, Singapore, Changi , Terminal 2 HAN Arrive 5.35pm Hanoi, Noi Bai Intl , Terminal 2

7.10 pm Meet at Column 17 First floor International Lobby to board Sao Viet Overnight Cabin bus. Cabin bus tickets bought through Homestay 1579.

12 Jun (Mon) 1.30 am Arrive Sapa town, free transfer to van for transport to homestay for 3 nights. Check-in and stayed at Homestay 1579 Bungalow 79b Nguyễn Chí Thanh Sapa Hai Yen +84983876289 2,640,000 VND for 3 nights. Booked through booking.com, they are listed on Airbnb too.

Sapa Cat Cat Village (Entrance fee 150,000 VND per adult, 30 minutes walk to entrance / 150,000 vnd per private car for 5 people, one way (did not bargain))

13 Jun (Tue) Sapa Fansipan Mountain (Mung Hoa funicular 145,000 VND/person, cable train 660,000 VND/adult, 420,000 vnd/child, Fansipan Funicular 150,000 VND/person) Purchased from Klook just before boarding as it is cheaper and can pay by credit card. We skipped the Mung Hoa funicular as our accommodation is midway and travelled directly to the cable train station.

14 Jun (Wed) We booked a car with driver for 4 hours via Sapadaytour.com to travel out of Sapa town.

Sapa Silver Waterfall/Love Waterfall - I chose the Love Waterfall as it was said to have good scenery en route and more fun as there are many stream crossings but it rained and was still raining when we visited, the river was too strong to do any crossing)

Cau Kin Rong May - This is where we did the skywalk and there are other adventurous activities as well. I purchased the tickets onsite by cash even thogh it costs 100,000 VND more than Klook as Klook tickets were sold out for the day)

Heaven’s Gate - This is a place to take photographs, locally referred to as check-in, entrance fee payable). 

Dropped off at Mat Ngoc lake for dinner.


For transport around Sapa, we hailed the electric car (9-seater) and have paid 50,000 to 100,000 vnd one way.

15 Jun (Thur) Ta Phin Village and Overnight train. Checked out of Homestay. Booked Car with driver  and guide (4 hours) to travel to Ta Phin Village which is on the way to Lao Cai train station. Walked around Ta Phin village, visited a cave, did not do the originally scheduled herbal bath (Ta Phin’s specialty) as the tour guide brought us to a place that quoted 250,000 per person. FYI Red Dao Authentic Herbal Bath charges 100,000 VND per person.

The two half days’ car with driver and guide costs total 170USD.

Dropped off at Nhà hàng Hải Nhi Số 337 Quảng trường ga Lào Cai Hotline – 0943.256.188. This restaurant is to exchange Sapaly Train ticket voucher bought from Klook for actual train tickets. Prepare for train boarding by 8.30pm.

There are many massage places with cheaper prices than SaPa town. Train departs 9.30pm.

16 Jun (Fri) Arrived 5.30 am walk to Mango Hotel 2 mins to wait for transport to Tuan Chai harbour for Halong Bay Cruise. 7.40am Mango Hotel 118 Le Duan to board Genesis Regal Cruise Halong Bay Tours + 84 865 006 003

17 Jun (Sat) Arrived 2pm Hanoi Old Quarter Airbnb. Phố Lương Ngọc Quyến 33, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam • Host: Ms My 👩🏻 +84832091997 Host: Mr Quan 👱🏼‍♂️ +8498 6086687

On Sat night, the roads are closed off and there are activities and performances by the lake.

18 Jun (Sun) 9.30 am Transport to Noi Bai Airport (USD 20, arranged by Airbnb). Singapore Airlines HAN 12:35 Hanoi, Noi Bai Intl , Terminal 2 SIN 17:05 Singapore, Changi


This is our first holiday where I actually have a food itinery! The previous ones I have even forgotten about time for meals altogether, oops. 

I found these recommendations on the web.

Local cuisine in Sapa

Thang Co: A traditional dish made from horse meat and organs, boiled with various herbs and spices. Address to eat delicious Thang Co in Sapa: A Phu Restaurant (15 Fansipan), Thang Co A Quynh Restaurant (15 Thach Son Street), Viet Deli Restaurant (01) Le Van Tam), A Quanh restaurant (Ngu Chi Son st)

Xoi: A sticky rice dish that can be served sweet or savory. 

Banh Cuon: A thin, steamed rice noodle roll filled with pork, mushrooms, and shallots.

Muc Nhoi Thit: Grilled or fried squid stuffed with a mixture of minced pork, egg, and mushrooms.

Thit Lon Cap Nach: Roasted or boiled suckling pig, a specialty of the Black Hmong people.

Salmon salad/ Sturgeon hotpot The hot pot is hot, fragrant, served with fresh vegetables and broth made from fish bones on cold days is more wonderful than ever. Pieces of fresh, red salmon/sturgeon are thinly sliced and served with fresh vegetables.

Recommended Sang Meo Restaurant 029 Fansipan, A Phu Restaurant 15 Fansipan, Mong Sa Pa Cuisine Restaurant 08 Xuan Vien, Ca Hoi Vua Restaurant 015 Le Van Tam. I tried the one at A Phu Restaurant, did not disappoint, cost 600,000 vnd per hot pot.

Free range pigs The most famous must mention grilled pork. Recommended A Phu Restaurant (15 Fansipan), May Quan Restaurant (57 Xuan Vien), Gia Ban Restaurant (4121 Dien Bien Phu), Sang Meo restaurant (029 Fansipan st)


Sa Pa Barbecue There are two types, one where is placed on skewers, you choose the skewer and it is grilled for you, the other type where you barbecue the meat on your own (much like Korean table barbecue).

Address to eat delicious grilled food in Sa Pa: Gia Bao Restaurant (Grilled Tile) 498 Dien Bien Phu, Tra Phuong Quan 026 Ngu Chi Son, My Nuong 442 Dien Bien Phu. We tried the one at Tra Phuong Quan, ordered the 500,000 vnd set and the meat was too much. We were left full and there was no room for supper.

Chestnut cake

Local cuisine in Hanoi

1. Phở

Recommended destination:  Phở Cường, 23 Hang Muoi Str., Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Opening hours: 6.30AM-10PM, Daily

2. Bún chả (Rice noodles with grilled pork)

Grilled pork dipped in a sauce made from fish sauce, sugar, lime juice, garlic, and other ingredients, served with bún (rice noodles) and a wide variety of herbs.

Recommended destination:  74 Hang Quat Str., Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. Opening hours: 10.30AM-2PM, Daily Price: VND30,000-VND50,000 This is closed but there are many Bun Cha restaurants around.

 

3. Bún bò Huế (Hue beef noodles)

Whole slice of pig’s leg complemented by beef and meatballs. Recommended destination: 5B Quang Trung Str., Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. Opening hours: 7AM-9.30PM, Daily Price: VND50,000-VND70,000

 

4. Bún bò Nam Bộ (Southern beef noodles)

Beef is briefly fried then served directly with rice noodles, peanut, fried onion, and plenty of herbs. Recommended destination:  67 Hang Dieu Str., Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Opening hours: 7.30AM-10.30PM, Daily Price: VND60,000-VND100,000

 

5. Chả cá (Grilled fish)

Recommended destination: 14 Chả Cá Street Opening hours: 11AM-2PM & 5PM-9PM, Daily Price: From VND175,000VND (~USD7.53) Check out the google reviews before going.

 

6. Gà tần thuốc bắc (Chicken cooked with Chinese herbs)

Recommended destination: 12C Hang Cot Str., Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Opening hours: 9AM-10PM, Daily Price: VND60,000-VND100,000

 

7. Bún riêu cua (Rice noodles with freshwater crabs roe)

Recommended destination: 11 Hang Bac Str., Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Opening hours: 6AM-6PM, Daily Price: VND25,000-VND45,000 (USD1.08-USD1.94) I tried this, the rice noodles with carbs roe is called the special noodle.